The following post is from Bob Chaplin, a well known author in the wine scene. Bob’s articles can be seen on his own blog, A Wine Blog, as well as in the New England Wine Gazette, just to name a few publications. He has written about wine and other libations for many newspapers and magazines including the Norwich Bulletin, Northeast Magazine, The Hartford Courant, Seasons, Connecticut Business Magazine, Hartford Magazine, Decades and The Shoreline Times since 1998, sometimes with his wife, local radio and television personality Prudence Sloane. They have written about, and occasionally lectured on food and wine pairing. press is honored to share some of his articles with our readers.
There’s definitely a stormy feeling in the air. There’s a tangibly brooding atmosphere. The wind is whipping the underside of the leaves on the surrounding trees creating a silver green shimmer. Sheltered by their own leaves, the promise of this years’ wine vintage, green clusters of pin-head sized grapes are just forming on the vines. A combination of soul, blues and rock music wafts over the vineyard. My wife, the dancing queen, perks up at the music and if it wasn’t for the fact we are walking on grass, her feet would surely be a’tappin’.
Musical Vines and Tables of Food and Wine.
Jonathan Edwards winery has been hosting spring and fall musical events for the past seven years. It’s usually a one-day event, but this year the spring fling is spread over the weekend of 5 – 6th June. Over the two days a variety of bands entertain the crowds, including the Village Jammers, Hoolio, Tangled Vine and Boston’s premier Funk Soul band Chicken Slacks. Local food companies are supplying dishes to complement the wines. There’s Judie’s handcrafted bread and Grossmans Seafood supplying clams and oysters. There’s tacos supplied by Senor Flacos and Fortuna Sausage has brimming plates of antipasto. Now that would be great with the Pinot Gris.
Rocks and Roses
There’s something about a rose bush at the end of a line of vines. As spring turns to summer Jonathan Edward’s vineyards are a blaze of vermillion roses that contrast with the silver green of the exuberantly sprouting vines. Rose bushes are traditionally planted at the end of vine rows in Bordeaux in France, as they are a harbinger of mildew and other diseases. Roses are the canary in the mineshaft that can indicate an impending malaise.
The farm consists of 48 acres with about 20 acres used for growing grapes. The geometric matrix of vines are defined by stonewalls. These impressive structures complement the vineyards and confront you as you meander the vineyards.
Jonathan Edwards has to be one of the most successful wineries in Connecticut. As well as having a high profile here, they have consolidated distribution in Rhode Island, with wines featured at the Tennis Hall of Fame, and the opening night at the Newport Jazz Festival alongside alcoholic giants Absolut Vodka and Heineken. They also produce private bottlings for the Mohegan Sun, the luxurious Pierre Hotel in New York and the recently renovated Ocean House in Watch Hill Rhode Island.
The Wines
I was last at the winery in 2001 when it had been recently taken over by Jonathan Edwards and his wife Rachel. They were in the midst of creating an expensive drainage system to protect the vineyards from standing water. Initially they relied on income from bringing in, and making wines from selected vineyards in Californian but over the years they have been using grapes from their own vineyards. They still rely on Californian fruit to make many of their wines.
The Californian Portfolio.
Well crafted and solid, these are certainly wines to be respected. The wines are made in California and are shipped in temperature-controlled containers to Connecticut where they are matured, crafted and bottled. To maintain absolute quality Jonathan has long-term contracts with many of the fruit suppliers. From the bright and fresh Sauvignon Blanc – it’s a perfect summer patio quaff – to the caramel infused Napa Chardonnay; from the yummy Napa Valley Zins, to the complex Cabs, these are all solid west coast style wines. Prices range from $23 for the Chardonnay to $35 for the Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah. The Bordeaux style Napa Valley Stone Table Red is reasonably priced at $18 a bottle and is one of my favorites. It’s a great every day red wine.
Connecticut Wines.
As their home vineyard plantings gradually come on-line the winery has increased their local wine offerings. It’s all vinifera too, with Chardonnay Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer and a lone red, Cabernet Franc. All are priced at $21 a bottle.
2009 Estate Connecticut Pinot Gris – bright and floral with ripe pear flavors, this reminded me of a village wine from Alsace. It’s the perfect raw seafood wine.
2008 Estate Connecticut Chardonnay – An exuberance of lemons and apple aromas and flavors, with a slight smoky oaky background. This is the style of Chardonnay I like. It’s my favorite Edwards wine.
2008 Estate Connecticut Gewürztraminer – lovely delicate enticing aromas of spicy grapefruit. Tight, taut and crisp, with a succulent ripe lemon finish this is the ideal foil to Asian cuisine.
2008 Estate Connecticut Cabernet Franc – Impressive bright aromatics with a soft tannic backbone. Cheery cherry and light blackberry flavors. An excellent medium bodied red. It’s one of the better Connecticut reds I’ve tasted.
And this year’s vintage? I’ll be contacting Jonathan later this year for a full report, but after a scare of late frosts in the Spring that caught several Connecticut wineries by surprise, he says the fruit is beginning to set well, and so far so good.
Jonathan Edwards Winery is situated at 74 Chester Maine Road, in North Stonington, Connecticut. They are open daily from Wednesday through Sunday from 11 am to 5pm. Check their website www.jedwardswinery.com for other news like the concert with Jonathan Edwards on July 25th (not the winemaker!) and the Lobster Bake on August 15th
2009 CT Wine Festival
Hopkins Vineyard at 2009 CT Wine Festival
2009 CT Wine Festival
